Brazil’s Dreamiest Coastal Road Trip Winds Through Rainforests, Pristine Islands, and Colorful Beach Towns

I was inspired (or, if you believe in such things, divinely mandated) to road trip through Brazil during a spiritual ceremony. The idea came from my shaman, herself born and raised in the state of São Paulo. As entheogenic effects subsided, the digital-age healer pulled out her iPhone and showed me photos from her recent trip home. She explained how easy it was to rent a car and bounce from one beach town to the next, talking me through an oceanside route dotted with beach towns. We watched TikToks of locals mixing pulp for fresh açaí bowls. It felt like destiny.

Here was the solution to the question my partner and I had been wrestling with for months. Cam wanted to go somewhere distant and new. I wanted to go somewhere where I didn’t have to adjust to a new time zone. Filled with richly varied locales and only three hours ahead of Central Standard Time, Brazil seemed tailor-made. When I called him on the drive home to announce I’d solved our dilemma, Cam didn’t need convincing. 

While the fastest route between Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo cuts inland and takes just under six hours, we opted for the longer drive on the BR-101. The scenic corridor hugs the coastline, twisting through rainforest-covered hills, beach towns, and islands that are beloved by Brazilians but remain largely unknown to outsiders.

Planning Our Trip

This was a vacation we had spent weeks planning, and, to be honest, worrying about. We aren’t nervous travelers, but, leading up to the trip, the universe conspired to make us so. Well-meaning family members shared thirdhand anecdotes about car hijackings. Reddit threads warned us about radar speed traps, ubiquitous and strict. Even my Brazilian friends suggested skipping Rio if we didn’t want to get pickpocketed.

We coped as we do everything: differently. Cam, the planner, engineered a color-coded itinerary that charted every leg of the journey. I, already proficient in Spanish, mainlined 30 chapters of the “Brazilian Portuguese Survival Phrases” audiobook. Together, we hoped to make it from a stay in Rio to São Paulo by way of Paraty, Ubatuba, and Ilhabela safely and sans speeding tickets.

First Stop: Rio de Janeiro

We touched down in Rio at 8 a.m., jet-lagged and wilted from an overnight flight from Austin. The city woke us right up with a wall of humidity, the scent of salt and waste, and a soundtrack of samba spilling from corner stores.

From our hotel in Leme, a neighborhood near the quieter end of Copacabana, we settled into a groove: mornings spent flagging down coconut vendors on the beach, afternoons hiking to panoramic viewpoints, and evenings drinking Antarctica beer from beachside bars as the sky turned pink. From our hotel’s rooftop terrace, we watched Cariocas—Rio natives—playing futebol like it was genetic on golden beaches below. 

Rather than brave Rio’s chaotic traffic ahead of our road trip, we relied on Uber. Rides were plentiful and never cost us more than R$20 (about $4 USD). When it was time to leave for our next stop, Paraty, we picked up our rental car far from the city center and headed south.

Second Stop: Paraty

Soon, Rio’s traffic-jammed streets gave way to spacious, well-maintained roads. We stopped grumbling about the aggressive speed bumps (“On a highway!”) as we were awestruck by the views: shimmering beaches, tiny fishing villages, and emerald mountains sloping into the sea. 

Rolling into Paraty (pronounced para-CHEE) at dusk, it became clear why the town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The honor is bestowed on places of exceptional cultural or natural significance—and Paraty has both. Cradled between calm bay waters and a lush belt of rainforest, the town devotes more than 30 blocks to its colonial center: a maze of cobblestone streets where whitewashed buildings are adorned with crayon-colored doors and flower-trimmed windows.

We spent our nights wandering the old town, popping in and out of galleries while passing acai bowls back and forth. We hiked through jungle trails to reach the hidden Cachadaço natural pool, where we stacked our stuff on hulking volcanic rocks and swam in warm water with nibbling fish. We kayaked through Paraty’s mangrove-fringed estuaries, huffing and puffing to reach open water before sunset. 

We devoted our final day to island hopping. In the morning, we boarded a traineira (a repurposed wooden fishing boat) for a group tour through Paraty Tours. The schooner sailed through bottle-green waters past dozens of tiny islands and golden coves, anchoring at four different spots so we could snorkel in bathwater-warm ocean. A highlight was Ilha Comprida, locally nicknamed “aquário natural”—natural aquarium—for its abundance of colorful tropical fish and aquatic plants. The half-day tour got festively rowdy, fueled by an onboard bar that saw brisk business before noon.

Third Stop: Ilhabela

After three nights in Paraty, we loaded up our car and headed south to our next destination: Ilhabela, literally “beautiful island.” Just offshore from São Sebastião, this protected marine municipality includes dozens of secluded beaches, dense Atlantic rainforest, and more than 300 waterfalls (plus a famously aggressive mosquito population).

We left our rental car at a Localiza office on the mainland, then caught the ferry to Ilhabela. With no Ubers at this stop, we’d booked a pousada, or guesthouse, near the ferry terminal on the northwest of the island. This was a tradeoff for convenience, since the more scenic, swimmable beaches are on the island’s secluded southern side.

The best way of all to explore Ilhabela’s verdant interior is by guided jeep tour. After weeks of searching without finding an English-speaking option, we booked a Portuguese tour with the well-reviewed Ilhabela Jeep Tour company.

The tour involved bouncing down mud-slicked roads, clutching the Jeep’s frame and smiling politely as our fellow sightseers chattered in Portuguese. After an hour of teeth-rattling terrain, we arrived at Praia de Castelhanos. The heart-shaped bay, cut off from the island’s road network, is unspoiled aside from a row of identical beachside restaurants. We passed the afternoon hiking, swimming, and practicing Portuguese with our waiter at one of the many unnamed eateries. 

Aside from our Jeep tour, we got around the island by summoning local taxis via WhatsApp. Locals tend to do their beach hopping via the public buses running along the island’s west coast, but we never quite managed to be at the right stop at the right time. (Plus, they only accepted small bills and coins, which we never had.)

Fourth Stop: São Paulo

For the final stretch—São Sebastião to São Paulo—we made the executive decision to return the car and call an Uber. At R$400 (about $70 USD) for a three-hour ride, it was well worth it to spare us the stress of São Paulo’s infamous traffic.

Full disclosure: We had low expectations for São Paulo, a place we had heard was a vast and traffic-clogged mega-metropolis. Cam had lobbied to end in Rio, but I insisted we avoid the city’s Carnival crowds and fly home from São Paulo, which has its own celebration, but on a smaller scale. 

Upon arrival, São Paulo surprised us. We sampled cashew fruit at the Mercadão de Municipal, explored izakayas in the sprawling Japanese district, and stumbled into a Carnival bloco (a roving street party) while souvenir shopping. Surrounded by glitter-dusted dancers, blaring brass instruments, and beer vendors with coolers strapped to their chests, even I—a self-proclaimed Carnival scrooge—couldn’t resist a shimmy or two.

Local Paulistanos were warm and eager to chat. By the end, I was holding full conversations with Uber drivers. Even Cam, who insists he’s hopeless at foreign languages, was tossing out “obrigado” and “desculpe” with confidence. When we boarded our flight home, I declared São Paulo my favorite stop for its welcoming locals, standout food, and delightful Carnival. Cam picked Paraty for its history and its rare combination of rainforest, beaches, and culture.

Three weeks later, Cam got an email: a speeding ticket captured by one of Brazil’s radar traps. R$136, or about $25 USD. We agreed it was worth it.

Tips for a Brazil Road Trip

Divinely ordained or not, our journey left its mark. I recommend it to anyone who likes exploring at their own pace and doesn’t mind some hands-on travel.

If you’re considering your own drive down Brazil’s Costa Verde, don’t let our speeding ticket deter you. Renting a car is straightforward, with paved roads, reliable infrastructure, and beach towns conveniently spaced along the route. You don’t need advanced Portuguese or an armed escort. What helps is Google Maps, common sense, and a few key phrases—bom dia (good morning), por favor (please), obrigado (thank you), and desculpe (sorry).

To make your drive as easy as ours, keep these tips in mind:

• Cash: You won’t need much. Almost everyone—from Rio’s iconic mate gelado (ice tea) vendors to toll booths along the way—takes cards. However, you’ll want small bills or coins if you plan to take public buses on Ilhabela.
• Fuel: Gas stations are full-service. Most rentals are flex-fuel and accept gasoline (gasolina) or ethanol (etanol). Gasoline lasts longer; ethanol is cheaper. Say “completa com gasolina, por favor.”
• Tolls: Tolls are frequent and cost about R$5 to $20 per passenger car. Cards are accepted. 
• Speeding: Radar cameras are common and strict. Google Maps shows speed limits and radar locations.
• Navigation: BR-101 is well-maintained. Download offline maps in case of patchy service.
• Driving culture: Outside of major cities, driving is relatively easy and straightforward. In Rio and São Paulo, expect fast drivers and lane-splitting motos.
• Safety: Follow standard travel safety procedures: lock doors, don’t leave valuables in sight, and avoid driving at night.
• License: An international driver’s permit isn’t typically required. Your U.S. license should work, but check with your rental company to confirm.