What It’s Like to Drink in Tokyo’s Coolest New Bar That Only Has 6 Seats
We were lost. Not in a “just turn on Google Maps, and you’ll be fine” kind of lost. We were lost lost. On a warm spring night in Tokyo, in the midst of a light rain, my intrepid cocktail-ready companions and I ducked in and out of doorways, up back alley stairs, and pulled aside passerby after passerby, seeing if anyone knew the way to a brand-new spot simply called Rondo. Despite everyone’s patience with a group of scrambling out-of-towners, no one knew the way. Until we got the call from the man himself — Tatsuya Yoshida, the founder of Rondo and perhaps the most skilled bartender to be mixing drinks in the city, who gave us precise directions. And upon first sip of his creations, I learned that finding the right way to him is well worth the hassle.
It turns out we were in the entirely wrong neighborhood. We were meant to be in Shinjuku, a ward in Tokyo well known for its own buzzing signage and abundant karaoke bars. Instead, we followed the path to another Rondo Bar some three miles away. But even if we were in the right vicinity, Bar Rondo may still be a bit of a challenge to find, as it’s totally unassuming from the outside. But that just makes it all the more alluring and all the cooler when you walk into its minimally designed space that puts drinks at the forefront.
You see, this bar comes with just six seats tucked up to a long, single slab of wood bar (15 feet, to be exact) that faces a gorgeous abstract painting that mirrors its size. And that’s it. It may look sparse, but everything is so detailed and so intentional that you’d have to plan several visits to understand every piece of its nuance. And it’s a direct reflection of what Yoshida values when making a great drink.
“At peak time, I was a cocktail machine,” the owner says as he picks out the right glasses for our group of his days as the chief bartender at Star Bar, another highly celebrated establishment in Tokyo that often makes its way to the top of the best bars in the world lists. “I knew if I had my own bar, I’d want to talk with customers, so here, I have only six seats.”
However, these aren’t just any old chairs off the rack. In fact, the entire idea for Bar Rondo came to Yoshida after discovering the vintage pieces made in the late 19th century in London.
As for that 15-foot bar, it’s a piece of 350-year-old sapele wood, known for its golden-red hue, and often regarded as the best wood for meditative spaces as it’s believed to help people feel calmer. And that beautiful piece of art above it by Reita Moriya, an artist known for their work with traditional Japanese indigo coloring and plaster work, only adds to the zen nature of the room. Even the lighting here is intended to act as art — none of the overhead bulbs act as a spotlight. Rather, they’re meant to help the glasses cast a spellbinding shadow once the drink is placed in front of you.
After taking it in, I ordered my first drink: A gin and tonic made with Suntory’s Roku Sakura Bloom (we are, after all, here during peak cherry blossom season). It’s a drink he recommends you order if it’s your first visit to his bar and the drink he credits for inspiring his love of the cocktail world. Yoshida keeps it simple, pulling out a highball glass, popping in a square ice cube, and pairing the spirit with Fever Tree, which he says has the right carbonation and flavor profile to pair with Suntory. He then added a single slice of fresh ginger and handed it to me. It was utter perfection. It’s not complex, it’s not overly done, it’s not drowning out the nuanced floral, Yuzu, and subtle green tea flavors of Suntory’s gin. It’s hands down the best G&T I’ve ever had.
Next on the list, a vodka martini, once again made with the simplest of ingredients: Haku vodka, dry vermouth, and one sublime olive. Other favorite spirits in the back of his well-curated bar include Japanese whiskeys and rums, chosen out of a desire to create a magical moment just for you. As Yoshida shared in his blog about creating the bar, every time he picks up a new bottle or a new glass, the thoughts that run through his head include, “I will recommend this rum to that customer,” and “What if I served that customer’s favorite cocktail in this glass?”
The drinks, the bar, and Yoshida himself were all a reminder to stop complicating things, as the answer is already right there.
Yoshida shared that his philosophy for the bar was to create a space where “guests experience the extraordinary and forget reality.” By creating this quiet space, where each of the six patrons at a time can feel like they’re truly the center of attention, he’s more than succeeded. Now, all you need to do is figure out how to get there, too. And here’s a hint: Don’t rely on Google. Just head straight to 12-4 1F B district, Wakamiya-cho, Shinjuku, Tokyo, Japan, and you’ll find Yoshida ready and waiting for you. Even if you’re a little late.
link